Portland's Japanese Gardens

Yesterday I spent a lovely afternoon at one of Portland's true gems in Washington Park - the Japanese Gardens.  Not only was the weather warm & mostly sunny, but the rhododendruns, azaleas, camellias, and every spring flowering shrub worked together to feed my very soul.

Despite its small size - only 5.5 acres - the garden's design, from the moment you walk through the entry gate structure and past the guardian lion statues, slows you down to a stroll along its winding paths.  Dubbed the most authentic Japanese garden outside Japan, I was alternately charmed and bedazzled by its beauty.  Our tour guide was both friendly and knowledgeable about Japanese garden origins and design, showing a deep love of the art form throughout his presentation.  

The first style we saw incorporated the stunning visuals you see above, with a reflection pond, arching bridge, and two large metal crane sculptures.  Perhaps it was here we realized why these gardens appear so much larger - they make extensive use of something called "shakkei" or borrowing of landscapes in the distance.  We then wandered along offset wooden platforms suspended above a long koi pond to arrive at a lovely waterfall.

The second style is the tea garden or Chaniwa, which reached the height of their development during the Azuchi-Momoyama Period, when they were imbued a spirit of rustic simplicity for which they are known today. Tea gardens are typically simple and utilitarian, monochromatic in shades of green, with a stepping stone path leading from the garden entrance to the tea house. Stone lanterns provide lighting and a decorative element, while a wash basin (tsukubai) is used for ritual cleansing.  A somewhat larger tea house than the norm (5 tatami mats) is here, and one goes through two areas separated by low fences before entering the house itself.

We then learned about the Karesansui (Zen) Dry Garden which uses nothing but rocks, gravel and sand to represent all the elements of the garden landscape as we walked both through and overlooking a fine example of this austere type.  It seemed to have a playful air about it, with the stones like fun-loving animals barely able to sit still in front of the more stern central pillar.  Many of our group sat to enjoy a few moments of peace and no one was eager to push on.

There is even a nod to the Moss Garden type, by the seeding of various mosses over and around carefully placed boulders all along the walking paths.  Given the climate of Oregon, these areas have become a momentus greenscape to admire on their own.

The Sukiya style is exemplified by a beautifully simple and elegant structure that can be reserved for special events.  It overlooks the largest of structured gardens with curved pebbled areas to denote "water."  At the back of this building is a nice terraced area with a direct view of Mt. Hood above the taller buildings of Portland.  Although somewhat misty by afternoon and in her usual garb of blinding white snow, the mountain presented herself for all to admire.

By the time we returned to the entrance, I was ready to grab a shovel and head for the nearest nursery to capture some of this charm for myself.  Alas, it takes many dollars, years, loving devotion, and hard labor to produce such a wonderous place, so I must settle for returning time and again to enjoy this little piece of heaven.